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Dutch braids, also called inverted or reverse French braids, sit on top of the hair instead of lying flat, which gives them a bold, 3D look. They’re great for workouts, busy days and special occasions, and once you learn the basic technique you can turn them into dozens of styles.
This guide covers how to do a Dutch braid step by step, how it differs from a French braid and how to make it last. When you’re ready for ideas, browse our Dutch braid hairstyles.
What Is a Dutch Braid?
A Dutch braid is a three-strand braid where you add hair as you go and cross the outer strands under the middle strand. Crossing under is what makes the braid pop up from the head, rather than sinking in like a French braid.
How to Do a Dutch Braid
Step 1: Brush Out Your Hair
Start with detangled hair, either dry or slightly damp. A light mist of water, a smoothing cream or a little texture spray makes the hair easier to grip and helps tame flyaways.
Step 2: Take a Section at the Hairline
Brush your hair straight back. Pick up a section at the front of your head, about the width of your forehead or a bit narrower, and split it into three equal strands.
Step 3: Cross the Strands Under
Cross the right strand under the middle strand, then cross the left strand under the new middle strand. This underhand cross is the key to a Dutch braid.
Step 4: Add Hair as You Go
Before each cross, pick up a thin section of loose hair from that side and add it to the outer strand, then cross it under the middle. Keep the pieces you add about the same size so the braid looks even.
Step 5: Braid to the Nape
Keep adding hair from both sides and crossing under until all your hair has been picked up, usually at the nape of your neck. Keep the tension firm but not tight.
Step 6: Finish With a Regular Braid
Continue with a standard three-strand braid, still crossing under, down to the ends, and secure it with a hair tie.
Step 7: Pancake the Braid (Optional)
For a fuller look, gently tug on the outer loops of the braid to widen them. Start at the top and work down, pulling a little at a time.
Dutch Braid vs. French Braid
Both braids add hair as you go. The difference is the cross: a French braid crosses strands over the middle, so it lies flat and smooth, while a Dutch braid crosses them under, so it stands out from the head. If you can do one, you can learn the other quickly.
How Long Do Dutch Braids Last?
Dutch braids can last several days, sometimes up to a week, depending on your hair texture, how tightly they’re braided and how you protect them while you sleep. Fine, slippery hair usually loosens sooner, while textured hair tends to hold longer.
How to Care for Dutch Braids
- Protect them at night: sleep with a silk or satin scarf or on a satin pillowcase to reduce frizz.
- Keep your scalp fresh: if you’re keeping them in for several days, dilute shampoo, apply it to your scalp, massage gently and rinse well.
- Moisturize: a light oil or leave-in conditioner keeps your scalp and the ends of your hair from drying out.
- Smooth flyaways: a little edge control or gel keeps the hairline looking neat as the days go on.
- Don’t leave them in too long: take them out after about a week to give your scalp and hair a break.
Do Dutch Braids Damage Your Hair?
Not when they’re done gently. Dutch braids keep hair tucked away, which can reduce everyday friction. The main risk is tension: braiding too tightly, especially around the hairline, can lead to breakage over time. Keep them comfortable and switch up your styles.
Ways to Wear Dutch Braids
- Two Dutch braids (often called boxer braids) for a sporty look.
- A side Dutch braid that sweeps across to one shoulder.
- A Dutch braid into a ponytail, like our braided ponytail ideas.
- A Dutch crown braid that wraps around your head.
- Half-up Dutch braids, similar to half-up, half-down braids.
Final Thoughts
Dutch braids look intricate but come down to one simple move: crossing under instead of over. Practice on one braid, then try two braids, crowns and ponytails. With a scarf at night and gentle tension, your braids will look neat for days.
